Amaranth Yatra and Shravan Maas

Each year in the month of Shravan, thousands of pilgrims make an arduous trek up to the Amaranth cave. They go to worship the sacred ice ‘lingam’ – a phallic symbol of lord Shiva, which is a natural phenomenon.

Shravan Maas falls on the fifth month of the Hindu calendar, starting late July and ending by the third week of August. The star ‘Shravan’ rules the sky during Purnima (full moon day) or during an entire month, hence the month is known as Shravan Month or Maas (also known as Sawan month in North India). This month is considered to be the holiest month of the year as many religious festivals and ceremonies fall in this month such that almost every day in the month is considered prosperous. This month is dedicated to the worship of lord Shiva.

The Shravan Maas in 2016  begins from 20th July (Wednesday) and is observed as the ‘first day of Shravan Month’ and is followed with “Sawan Somwar Vrat” on every Monday i.e. on 25th July, 01st August, 08th August, 15th August and ends on 18th August. The pilgrims go to worship the ‘sacred’ice lingam – a phallic symbol of lord Shiva in a cave which is situated at a height of 3,888m in the Himalyas. During the entire Shravan Maas period, devotees offer prayers, flowers and Abhishekam to Lord Shiva to gain a long and prosperous life. They worship the ‘Shiv Lingam’ as they believe that they can only achieve salvation by witnessing it. Devotees make offerings on the Shiva Lingam that consist of Bel leaves, Panchamrut (milk, yoghurt, clarified butter, honey and jaggery). The general belief is that by offering milk to lord Shiva in the month of Shravan one can earn a lot of punya or merit.

The ice lingam was discovered by a Muslim shepherd- Buto Malik. According to popular belief, Buto Malik was given a sack of coal by a Sadhu (holy man) but when he opened the sack at home it was full of gold. Overjoyed he went back to thank the sadhu but found a cave on the spot where they met. Since then the cave has become an important pilgrimage centre. It is believed that lord Shiva recounted the secret of creation to Parvati in this cave. It was overheard by a pair of doves who became immortal. Pilgrims still report seeing these doves in the cave.

Many devotees fast on Mondays during this time and while fasting chant the Shiva Mantra “Om Namah Shivaya” (“adoration to Shiva”) and Mahamrityunjaya Mantra (“great death conquering mantra”). Some devotees even keep a Maun Vrat (vow of silence) for a whole day to connect themselves to lord Shiva. The fast is broken after sunset, although in some cases it continues till next day. Devotees offer their prayers to lord Shiva and then consume normal food.

Devotees believe that fasting on the Somvar (Monday) in Shravan Maas brings spiritual bliss, improved physical and mental health, increased willpower and memory, women who fast on Shravan Mondays (Somvars) get their perfect partner and it removes obstacles by expelling negativity.

Each day in the Shravan Month has its specific importance and rituals that have to be followed:

Monday: is the day to worship lord Shiva.

Tuesday: women worship Gauri for the better health of their family.

Wednesday: is dedicated to Vithala, an incarnation of lord Vishnu or Krishna.

Thursdays: are for worshipping Buddh and Guru.

Friday: for worshipping Lakshmi and Tulsi.

Saturdays: are for Saturn (Shani Dev). These days are also known as Shravan Saturdays or Sampat Sanivara (wealth Saturdays) as one can pray for obtaining wealth.

Sundays: are for the Sun god. Sun worship was common practice in the Vedic period and it is followed even now. Especially in Shravan, every Sunday the Sun is worshipped.

Bonalu

Bonalu is a folk festival celebrated in the Telangana region, Andhra Pradesh. This century-old tradition is observed with the upmost gaiety and devotional fervour during the month of Asadh. 

This month long festival is marked by devotional singing and ritualistic worship of the village deities.The ‘Ghatams’ or decorated pots, filled with flowers, are the main attraction of the festival. The flower pots are carried on the heads of women in a procession. Similarly cooked rice is also carried by women on their heads to the local goddess accompanied by male drummers.

Bonalu is celebrated chiefly in the cities of Hyderabad and Secunderabad. Saree Jagadambika Temple located on the top of the Golconda Fort attracts the maximum number of devotees from the region. The state government also performs puja officially on behalf of the people.

Rath Yatra

What is it?

Rath Yatra is an unusual festival in the memory of an 80 year old event. in the month of Ashada (rainy season in Odisha usually falling in June or July) this celebration takes place in the state of Orissa. Rath Yatra means a ‘chariot ride’ which is preserved as the gateway to heavens by the devotees. The ritual ride is observed in the Jagannath temple city of Puri in Orissa.

How is it celebrated?

The Jagannath temple is a trinity abode or dham dedicated to lord Krishna, his elder brother Balarama and their sister Subhadra. The images of the trinity are made of new wood and adorned in splendour. On the full moon day day of Ashada the images are taken out with the accompaniment of huge chariots in the streets.  They are brought out onto theBada Danda (Main Street of Puri) and travel 3km to the Shri Gundicha Temple. This allows the public to have darsana – a Holy view.  Once the chariots come on the road , the continuos movement of the participants do not allow the procession to come to a halt. The English word juggernaut was originated from Jagannath that is replayed to the massive and unstoppable “Ratha” carrying Jaggannath. 

Decorations

The chariots, which are built new every year, are pulled by devotees. The chariots are 45 feet high, 35 feet square and take about 2 months to construct. The artists and painters of Puri decorate cars and paint flower petals and other designs on the wheels, the wood carved charioteer and horses and the inverted lotuses on the wall behind the throne.

The festival

This ride is usually covered uphill and downhill track. The procession takes almost ten hours to reach its destination. Ratha -Yatra (Puri) in the state of Odisha, India is still the oldest, biggest and most visited Rath Yatra in the world. It attracts a “large crowd”.

The Grand Palace, Bangkok

Day two of our stay in Bangkok and we ventured out in ‘appropriate’ clothing for a visit to the Grand Palace. That meant long trousers, tops with covered arms and nothing transparent. We were sweltering in the 33C heat but glad we made the effort when we discovered security rigorously, and sometimes forcibly, enforcing the rules.

The Grand Palace is indeed grand on a large and opulent scale. It is difficult to over emphasise how impressive, decorative and stunning the buildings and architecture are. It was established in 1782 by King Rama 1 and has Royal residences, throne halls and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha amongst the vast array of buildings. It attracts 30,000 visitors a day in high season and 18,000 a day in low season. The entrance fee was 500 Baht (£10) each; They rake it in but it was worth every penny and the upkeep must cost a fortune.

As we entered we picked up an official guide called Moonsong (recommended by security and the American tourists who had just finished their tour). Moonsong (apart from having a beautiful name) was a fabulous guide, explaining in detail about the monuments we saw and recommending best places to take pictures in the crowds. 

The Upper Terrace

As we entered the Palace complex a statue of Hor Phra Rajphongsanusorn greets you. He was King Rama 1’s physician and the stone on which he used to grind medicines was laid in front of him (about 234 years old).  We moved to the ‘Upper Terrace’ with its vast array of golden and opulent buildings. Here was the golden chedi (a mound like structure containing holy relics). It is decorated with glass tiles each covered in gold and each costing 1USD. It is stunning. Next to it is the Mondop – where Buddhist sacred scriptures are kept. Then there was the miniature model of Ankor Wat crafted and carved in stone upon the order of King Mongkut (Rama IV) and the Royal Pantheon in which former kings of the ruling Chakri dynasty are enshrined. On the ground level of the upper terrace are the scripture library (Hor Phra Monthian Dharma, a beautiful wiharn (Phra Wiharn Yod) containing numerous Bhuddha images and the mausoleum of the Royal Family (Hor Phra Naga) which contains the cremated ashes of the members of the Royal Family. Then there are two small chapels – one containing Buddha images and the other containing images of the current dynasty. In between these stunning examples of architecture are statues of mythical creatures keeping guard over all. 

the Upper Terrace

external of the Temple of the Emerald Buddha

model of Ankor Wat

Mythical creature: half womand, half lion

mythical demons for protection

Royal Monastery of the Emerald Buddha

This is one of the most venerated sites in Thailand where people converge to pay their respects to lord Buddha and his teachings. The Emerald Buddha is enshrined on a golden traditional Thai style throne made of gilded carved wood (a Busabok). It sits in the ordination hall of the Royal Monastery. The emerald Buddha is clothed in seasonal clothing (summer, monsoon or winter) and was still in summer ‘clothes’ when we visited. The King is the only person allowed to change the Emerald Buddha’s clothing. Access is via some very steep steps at the rear. As the current King is 90 years old he now commands the ceremony whilst the Prince changes the Emerald Buddha’s clothes.

The Emerald Buddha is carved from a single piece of jade discovered in a stupa in Chiang Rai in 1434. It was placed in the Royal Monastery in 1778 by King Rama 1. The monastery has no monks but serves as the private chapel of the ruling monarch. The walls of the ordination hall are painted with murals depicting several events in lord Buddha’s life.

Taking photos inside the Temple are strictly forbidden and rigorously enforced by the numerous security guards instructing visitors to sit, stand, move on and be quiet – all with signs and pictures in English and a stick to reinforce the message!

external wall of the Temple of the Emerald Buddha

mythical monkey creature instructs the mythical devils standing guard

external wall of the Temple of the Emerald Buddha

The Borom Phiman Mansion

The Borom Phiman Mansion was built  in 1903 in a western style by King Rama V (for the heir apparent). The residence was used on various occasions by Kings Rama VII and VIII (1925-46) and the current King Rama IX. It currently is used as a Royal Guest House for visiting heads of state and Royal families.

The Boram Phiman Mansion

The Chakri Maha Prasat

This was built by King Chulalongkorn (King Rama V, 20 September 1853 – 23 October 1910) and completed in 1882. King Chulalongkorn was the fifth monarch of Siam under the House of Chakri. He was known to the Siamese of his time as Phra Phuttha Chao Luang (The Royal Buddha) and to the west as the King in the ‘King and I’ or ‘Anna and the King’. His reign was characterized by the modernization of Siam, government and social reforms, and territorial cessions to the British Empire and French Indochina. As Siam was threatened by Western expansionism, King Chulalongkorn, through his policies and acts, managed to save Siam from being colonized. All his reforms were dedicated to ensuring Siam’s survival in the midst of Western colonialism. King Chulalongkorn earned the epithet Phra Piya Maharat (The Great Beloved King).

The Chakri group consists of the Central Throne Hall and the two wings. The Central Throne Hall is used for the reception of foreign ambassadors and for state banquets for visiting heads of state. The third floor contains the cremated remains of members of the Royal Family.

The Dusit Group

This group of buildings consists of the Dusit Maha Prasat Throne Hall and the Amphorn Phimok Pavillion. The Dusit Maha Throne Hall was originally built in teak wood but burnt down in 1790 and replaced by King Rama I. It was intended for his own lying in state ceremony but has been used ever since for the lying in state of kings, queens and other members of the Royal family. It is also used for the annual coronation day ceremony.

The Dusit group of buildings

There were many other exhibitions and and museums to see within the Grand Palace that we simply did not have the energy or capacity to see. The Grand Palace is truly Grand in every sense of the word and I can highly recommend a visit. If you do, look out for the fabulous guide called Moonsong – he’s worth every Baht!

One day in Bangkok

Airport Arrival

We arrived in Bangkok in the early hours of the morning. After some confusion about whether we need a visa or not – we’d flown from India (visa required) on UK passports (no visa required) – we were ushered through passport control (without a visa). Collected our bags, visited the loos and breathed. It was clean. It was quiet. It was modern. The contrast from Bangalore was there already. We booked a cab and were taken to a clean car (without bumps and dents) with Aircon and leather seats and seat belts. Another huge contrast. 

Journey to the hotel

We marvelled at the smooth roads. No potholes, no random people walking in the road, no cows, no dogs, no goats, no people sweeping the roads with twigs and a flag to alert the traffic, no cars randomly stopped on the road, no piles of rubbish. There was lane discipline and use of signals, no dodgy u turns on highways or vehicles travelling in the wrong direction and most notably- no constant use of the horn. It was quiet. It was smooth (not like Bangalore where you feel you are off roading all the time). It was straight (no ‘whacky races’ here). There weren’t animals roaming around. It was clean. We sat back and enjoyed the ride. How refreshing.

Chatrium Riverside Hotel

Quick and efficient check in (another huge contrast to Bangalore) and got us to our room quickly knowing we were tired from the journey. The room is large with a kitchenette and overlooks the river. There is a welcome plate of fruits we can’t identify! After a few hours catching up on sleep we headed down for lunch in the lobby restaurant. Once again we were a bit overwhelmed by the choice. Zahra went for a sausage roll and I think she merely inhaled it! The food was delicious – and it was served together (unlike Bangalore where meals come as they are cooked so no one eats at the same time.). It was Zahra who noticed this and commented. 

The concierge was extremely helpful showing us how to get to places of interest on the map, how much it would costs and the scams to avoid! We headed for the Grand Palace but arrived just as it was shutting (and long trousers are required). The security got our map out and showed us where to go in the area, got us a uniformed Tuk Tuk (regulated driver), bargained with him for us and sent us on our way with a cheery “see you tomorrow”. It took less than 5 mins and was a bit of a whirlwind, but nevertheless funny and helpful. They’ve clearly had to do that many times before.

Wat Intharawihan Temple

It was around 4pm when we arrived at the temple, so it was relatively quiet. We were able to wander around unimpeded and take a leisurely look at the temple and the shrines and the huge golden Buddha statue. At 32 metres (105 ft) high, 10 metres (33 ft) wide the standing Buddha statue (referred to as Luang Pho To or “Phra Si Ariyamettrai”) was built between 1867 and 1927, taking 60 years to complete.  Ajon Toh, the then Abbott of the temple, was the inspiration to build it but he died at the foot of the image in 1871. A gilded bust of this Abbott is enshrined at the temple entrance. 

The Buddha is carrying a bowl. There are (steep!) stairways at the sides to the back behind the statue  which provides access (for devotees) to paste gold leaf on the statue. The image is called Luang Phor To.  The statue which is decorated in glass mosaics tiles is gilded with 24-carat gold. The topknot, called Ushnisha, of the Buddha statue contains a relic of lord Buddha (which was given as a gift by the Government of Sri Lanka).

China Town

After some negotiations with a few Tuk Tuk drivers we finally found one that would take us to China Town without ripping us off or stopping at a tailors to get a suit made! The Tuk Tuks here are clean and comfortable and fast (traffic dependent obviously).  Yaowarat Road in Samphanthawong district is home to Bangkok’s Chinatown.  We walked through the small narrow lanes and backstreets of Chinatown’s Sam Pheng Market. Trading had finished for the day and the stall holders were packing away the myriad of goods they had been selling. They were sweeping and washing the street and rubbish was collected neatly in bags piled ready for collection. Yet another stark contrast to Bangalore (where nobody collects rubbish, cleans or tidies their street stall). It was fascinating. We wandered back onto the main Yaowarat Road where the food stalls were quickly being set up and some were already very busy. There are few restaurants to go in and eat – the majority of food here is street food and some stalls have makeshift seating and tables to facilitate this. It is a complete contrast to London’s small Chinatown full of restaurants. 

T&K Seafood – fresh everyday!

We had a look on the Internet and chose one of the restaurants on the ‘top 10 restaurants in Chinatown’ list – T&K seafood. It looked like a builders cafe but looks can be deceiving. It was all fresh fish on the menu and it was delicious. Fried large prawns (in shell), garlic fried prawns and crab fried rice were washed down with freshly squeezed orange juice (no added sugar here thankfully). It was delicious. All for 850 Baht (£17).

The place was buzzing when we left but we were too tired to explore anymore so we hailed a cab and headed back to the hotel for a nightcap before bed. It was an enjoyable first day.