At the beginning of April we had a visitor from the UK with us for a week’s short break from the madness of work. The holiday was mainly to relax in the sun but some tourist intake was necessary to make it a worthwhile trip (other than seeing us obviously!). We decided to do a day trip to “Magnificent” Mysore (the palace city) on the Ugadi holiday as Zahra was off school and Rez was off work, so we could all go.
We set off suitably early at stupid o’clock to miss the traffic and arrive in Mysore at 9am. It was already getting hot but we had come prepared…we had socks with us. (We have learnt, painfully, that bare feet in temples and sacred places in searing heat leads to very hot feet and blisters.)
Tippu Sultan’s mausoleum
The first stop was Tipu Sultan’s Mausoleum. It is magnificent and peaceful; surrounded by beautiful landscaped gardens. The Gumbaz at Seringapatam is a Muslim mausoleum holding the graves of Tippu Sultan, his father Hyder Ali and his mother Fakr-Un-Nisa. It was originally built by Tippu Sultan to house the graves of his parents. Tippu was himself allowed to be buried here by the British, after his death in the Siege of Seringapatam in 1799.
The original carved doors of the mausoleum have been removed and are now displayed at the Victoria and Albert Museum, London. The present door made of ebony, and beautifully decorated with ivory was gifted by Lord Dalhousie.
Tipu Sultan’s Summer Palace
A few minutes drive away is The Dariya Daulet Bagh, Srirangapatna, “the wealth of the sea” is referred to as the summer palace of Tipu Sultan, was built in 1784. It’s a square palace built on a raised stone plinthwith teak pillars running along the outer edge enclosing a corridor all the way around. There are two open air rooms overlooking open air halls on the north and south sides, which are accessed by four staircases. The walls and ceilings of the entire palace are painted with fabulous murals and battle scenes. Unfortunately photography is not allowed inside to protect the ancient paintings.
Lalitha Mahal Palace Hotel
On a hill just outside Mysore is the Lalitha Palace Hotel. It was built by the Maharaja of Mysore to host the Viceroy of India in 1931. The Lalitha Mahal is now one of India’s “most opulent” hotels. When we visited at Brunchtime it was deserted and trying to have some food served proved a little tricky at first but was soon resolved when we finally got hold of the man in charge. Whilst the menu was limited, the meal was fine. We were starving anyway, so it was very welcome sustenance.
‘Chamundi’ or ‘Durga’ is the fierce form of ‘Shakti’. She is the slayer of demons, ‘Chanda’ and ‘Munda’ and also ‘Mahishasura’, the buffalow-headed monster. She is the guardian and protector deity of the Mysore Maharajas and the presiding deity of Mysore. For several centuries they have held the goddess Chamundeswari in great reverence.
Named after goddess Chamundi, the Chamundeshwari Temple sits atop the main hill. The main hill itself features an ancient stone stairway of 1,008 steps leading to its summit. Approximately halfway to the summit is statue of bull Nandi, the vahana, or “vehicle” of Lord Shiva, which is 4.9m tall and 7.6m long and carved out of a single piece of black granite. Around this point, the steps become significantly less steep and eventually the climber is rewarded with a panoramic view of the city. We drove.
According to a legend, the asura Mahishasura (king of the city that is currently known as Mysore) was killed by goddess Chamundeswari (also called Chamundi) after a fierce battle.
Sri Chamarajendra Zoological Gardens, known as ‘Mysore Zoo’, is one of the oldest zoos in India established in 1892, by His Highness the Ruler of Mysore Sri Chamarajendra Wadiyar Bahadur. Mysore Zoo holds an important place in Karnataka. It was ok as zoos go, and certainly one of the better maintained we have seen since being here, but the enclosures were not large and the lack of enrichment activities made for bored and restless animals. Like everything in India, there is so much more that could be done to make it a fabulous place, but the lack of cash is always a factor here.
As usual, it was the ‘wild’ Monkeys that proved to be most mischievous, stealing ice creams from visitors on this day. Rez risked losing his hat to one for the photo.
Mysuru Palace is the official residence and seat of the Wodeyars — the rulers and Royal family of Mysore, who ruled the princely state from 1399 to 1950. The palace houses two durbar halls (ceremonial meeting halls of the royal court) and incorporates an array of courtyards, gardens, and buildings. It is an example of a combination of Indo Saracenic architecture and is truly magnificent. The palace is in the central region of inner Mysore and faces the Chamundi Hills eastward. It is illuminated on Sundays and festive occasions between 7pm and 7:30pm. Entrance is INR 40 (about 50p) for adults. Shoes have to be left at the entrance and the chaos surrounding the shoe stall makes you wonder whether you will ever see your shoes again! Having been before we knew to wear socks if we were ever to get our feet clean again. After passing through some airport style security checks we have our tickets checked and sent back to the start adthe ticket office has given us one short. (a nice little scam!) after finally gettting through security we followed the carefully sanctioned route around the Palace, passing regular security guards whose main purpose was to hurry people along and to ensure no one took any photos inside the Palace….oops!
After the Palace we were famished and were ready to eat (nearly) anywhere. We quickly found a restaurant in a hotel on TripAdvisor which was close by and headed there. We enetered a very dodgy looking dark restaurant with walls covered in African style artefacts. It was very strange. The menu was fine and we ate a hearty meal before heading out back to the Palace to see it lit up at night for Ugadi.
We headed home exhausted and happy.
Mysore Palace by night